FAQs

• Boats & marine laminating/repairs: EpoxyPro EP10 (coating/laminating EP1010; structural EP1020).
• Timber coating, laminating & repair: EpoxyPro EP40 (EP4010 low-visc coatings; EP4020 high-build filler).
• Countertops / benchtops (stone-look veining): StoneFusion Countertop Epoxy.
• General purpose bonding/casting: EpoxyPro EP60.
• Electronics potting/encapsulation: EpoxyPro EP20 series.
• Pool & spa maintenance: EpoxyPro EP70 series.
• Pebble/stone flooring binder: EpoxyPro EP80.
• Concrete floor priming/sealing: EpoxyPro EP8510.
• Penetrating waterproofing/primer: EpoxyPro EP30.
• Ultra-clear art, casting, river tables: Clearpox Ultra Clear.

Yes — sample sizes are available (handy for testing colour, clarity, adhesion and cure before scaling).

Clearpox, StoneFusion and EpoxyPro use a 2:1 (resin:hardener) mix by volume. The Deep Pour system uses 3:1. Measure accurately and mix thoroughly, scraping sides and base of the cup.

Rule of thumb: 1 L covers ~1 m² at 1 mm (≈1000 cm³). Multiply area by thickness for volume, then add waste margin. Use the Resin Volume Calculator for exact pours.

Ideal workspace is ~25 °C. Keep pours at ≥18 °C. Below ~15 °C cure slows and finish can suffer. You can gently warm bottles (~30 °C water bath) and condition the room.

Shallow seal coats: 0.5–2 mm; flood coats: ~2–4 mm. For deep castings, use the Deep Pour formulation or layer to manage exotherm/clarity. Test on a small mould first.

Yes — use epoxy-compatible pigments/pearls or alcohol inks. Add sparingly (often <5% by volume; for deep pours, stay far lower). Always test for the look and cure you want.

Clearpox Ultra Clear (standard): 2:1 mix, medium viscosity, quicker set in thin films — seal coats, flood coats, topcoats, small casts.

Deep Pour: 3:1 mix, very low viscosity, long pot life — thicker clear castings with reduced exotherm and excellent bubble release.

Yes. Both self-level on a prepared, level surface. 2:1 is favoured for coatings/flood coats; 3:1 is optimised for deep casting where heat control and clarity are key.

It depends on mass and temperature. As a guide at ~25 °C: 2:1 ≈ ~1 hour in small mixes; 3:1 ≈ several hours. Always test in your conditions.

You can, but a thin 2:1 seal coat usually sets faster in thin films. If using 3:1, apply a very thin coat and pour the main layer when tacky.

Pour the next layer in the product’s tacky/gel recoat window for chemical bond. If you miss it, lightly abrade (180–220 grit), clean, then pour.

• Warm parts to ~25 °C; mix slowly; use a wide, flat stirrer.
• Seal porous timber with a thin seal coat before flood coats.
• De-gas with brief, careful heat-gun passes (don’t scorch).

Common causes: off-ratio mixing, poor scraping during mix, cold environment, moisture contamination. Re-coat only after full cure on a clean, keyed surface; remove uncured patches and re-cast if necessary.

All epoxies slowly yellow with UV. For long-term clarity, use Clearpox indoors and consider a UV-stable topcoat for high-UV environments. Limit prolonged direct sun on clear finishes.

Clearpox and StoneFusion cure to a non-toxic, VOC-free, inert plastic — suitable for incidental food contact (boards, benchtops). Allow full cure (often 7+ days). EpoxyPro trade/industrial systems are not assessed for food contact.

Short answer: start small and keep total non-reactive additives under about 5% of mixed epoxy (and far less for deep pours).

• Transparent tint: ~0.1–0.5% of mixed epoxy
  Rule of thumb: ~1–5 drops per 100 mL.
• Pearlescent powders (e.g., Jacquard Pearl Ex): ~0.5–3%
  Rule of thumb: ≈ ⅛–¾ tsp per 100 mL (½–3¾ tsp per 500 mL).
• Solid/opaque with powders: ~2–5%
  Rule of thumb: ≈ ½–1½ tsp per 100 mL (2½–7½ tsp per 500 mL).
• Deep pours: stay at the low end (≈ ≤1–2%) to control heat/clarity; heavy powders can settle — add swirls near gel if desired.

Alcohol inks are strong dye concentrates in solvent. Too much can soften the surface or slow cure. Keep totals small:

• Veins/marbles & transparent effects: ~0.1–0.5% of mixed epoxy
  Rule of thumb: ~1–3 drops per 30 mL, or ~3–10 drops per 100 mL.
• Absolute max: about ≤1% of mixed volume (including any isopropyl alcohol used for effects). If the piece stays tacky or rubbery, you’ve likely over-added.

Tips: Let solvent flash briefly before covering; use gentle heat sparingly to avoid pinholes; for items used around food, keep inks/pigments to decorative areas only and allow a full cure.

For stone effects, pair StoneFusion with metallic pearls and a touch of alcohol ink for veining/marble lines. For river tables, Clearpox with mica pearls gives depth without clouding.

Yes — most systems can be tinted modestly without compromising cure. For composites (e.g., carbon fibre) use compatible tints and keep loading low to preserve mechanical properties and wet-out.

• Nitrile gloves, eye protection, covered skin; good ventilation.
• Read the product’s SDS/TDS before use. Dispose of cured waste responsibly; never pour resin/solvents down drains.
• Know basic first aid: wash skin with soap/water; flush eyes and seek medical advice if exposed.

Yes — SDS/TDS and specs are available on request for trade and retail orders. Provide the product name and kit size so we can send the correct documents.

We use national couriers for parcels and road freight for larger consignments/pallets. Tracking updates activate once the carrier collects your order. For bulk drums or multiple 15–30 L kits, request a tailored freight quote.

Yes — tracking is emailed once your parcel is booked with the carrier. If you don’t see it, check spam or contact us with your order number.

• Keep sealed in a cool, dry place (ideally 15–25 °C), out of direct sunlight.
• If resin thickens in cold weather, warm the sealed bottle in ~30 °C water before use.
• Wipe threads after pouring; keep moisture out of containers.

Unopened: typically 12–24 months when stored correctly. After opening: best within 6–12 months. Always check product label and batch details.